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Heshan Jayakody

Heshan Jayakody

546

Affection

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musician, photographer, writer...
  • Fujifilm X-E1
  • Sony Cyber-shot RX100 II
  • Nikon FM2n
  • Canon P Rangefinder
  • Lomo LC-A
  • Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f2.4-4 R LM OIS
  • Fujifilm XF 35mm f1.4 R
  • Nikon Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AI
  • Canon 50mm f1.8 LTM (M39)

film processing

Published March 16th, 2012

i finally got my hands on some Ilford film developing chemicals.. the bare basics: developer and fixer. Ilfosol 3 and Rapid Fixer, in case ur wondering. i also got myself an AP Compact developing tank, and a Delta 1 darkroom thermometer. thats pretty much it, and i think thats quite a complete (although basic) darkroom kit. i spent quite a while today practicing loading the developing tank with a couple of cheap film rolls that i had bought for that purpose - it can be a bit fiddly, and even harder when u try doing it in the dark.. but the AP Compact tank and its reels are very well designed, and it makes the whole process much easier. after loading two rolls of film, a few times each, im already pretty comfortable with the setup and feeling confident about doing the real thing as soon as i finish the couple of rolls that are currently in my two cameras

if ur not sure wat these things do, i'll try to break it down - not that i have much experience, but i HAVE read up quite a lot about ...

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scanning film and its difficulties

Published March 10th, 2012

well, i got myself a decent flatbed film scanner to digitize my film work.. scanning at a photo lab, although probably better (and more convenient as i found out) is really not economical. scanning by myself is cheaper.. and it also (more importantly) gives me full control over how the final image looks.

for example, i re-scanned a photo that i got scanned at the lab a few weeks ago.. a shot of a flower, that was red, according to the lab scan. my scan showed it to be a purple flower. im not actually sure wat color the flower actually was, but this shows how much scanning software and post processing can do. i can make the flower red if i want, but im not sure.. so i just went with wat looks better..

this is the control that im talking about. sure it takes a long time. scanning a roll takes around an hour.. during which (on my particular scanner) i need to replace the film strips 3 times. it takes a further hour or two to edit the photos to get them from flat-boring-lifeless to an ...

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lomography

Published February 27th, 2012

so i've always been interested in the quirky, wacky images that people now call lomo or lomographs, coming from the original russian optical company, LOMO. recently, as part of my dive into film photography, i got myself a 'vintage' russian Lomo LC-, complete with russian logo and markings, back from 1989. most people consider this camera, the original LC-A to be superior to the new Made in China LC-A+ that is selling on lomography.com for nearly 3 times the amount i spent

to be honest, compared to the manual film camera i use, with manual focus and exposure, this lomo is quite a bit more fun to use! see the subject, set the focus distance, and shoot. however, setting the focus distance has been a bit of a problem for me, and is definitely going to take practice before i start to get more in-focus results. for those of u who do not know wat i mean, the LC-A uses the focusing system knowng as Zone Focusing i.e. the lens focuses on (in the ase of the LC-A) four zones - these zones are d ...

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different types of film

Published February 25th, 2012

just a quick note to share my results with different brands and types of film ive been using the last few months:

Fuji Superia/Superia X-tra (200, 400) - my standard C41 color negative film. cheap, very good, i use this to test any new equipment i have, or to take any shots where i do not need any special or high requirements. its not overly saturated or contrasty, but definitely not flat. i love this film

Fuji Reala (100) - probably the best color film ive used. its a professional grade film, and pretty pricey - but the grain is extremely fine (as expected at ISO 100 but even then, its fine), great colors that sort of pop out, nice contrast, nicely saturated.

Kodak Ektar (100) - similar to Reala - super fine grain, beautiful colors and contrast.. i like this film a lot. great for daylight color work

Fuji Neopan Acros (100) - my favorite black and white film so far - great grey tones, beautiful contrast, very fine grain, but not too fine so it loses its 'filmy' look. never got bad ...

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back to photography

Published February 25th, 2012

so, after taking a couple of weeks off to work on my music, which remains my no. 1 thing i love to do, im back into messing around with the old cameras. i was also unable to post for a week after i hit my 'not-awesome' account limit :( haha. and ive still been too busy to get my canon P's test roll processed.. i really cant wait to see the results on that. i think i'll get a couple more rolls done on my lomo and my other SLR as well (trying out some kodak ektar 100 film, which is supposed to be the finest grain film in the world!) and then go get em all processed together. im getting a flatbed film scanner next week, so im looking forward to scanning the negs myself, n getting a more personal result

in addition, i got this new sekonic L-308s light meter for my canon P, which does not have a working meter. this thing is really good. its a flash meter as well as an ambient light meter, and gives a nice digital reading, unlike the L-208, which involves messing around with dials n needles ...

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