So we ended up just floating the entire 5 hours of river, drinking whiskey judiciously, listened to Radiohead on my iphone (that would later get dropped in the water) and we didn't see a single person once the sun set. We saw shooting stars that looked like bottle rockets, showering sparks as they fell. We heard bullfrogs and giant fish breaching the still water. In the cacophony coming from the 8 foot tall river grass we heard more types of insects, birds, and frogs than we could keep track of.
When we landed, we were cold and exhausted and felt a little cheated having not seen much of the landscape in the night. We swore we'd come back to the river and do it right.
We come back a year later and once again we kayaked Topoc Gorge north of Lake Havasu, this time during a summer afternoon on a weekend. Bad idea. It was like trying to leisurely roller skate down the interstate highway. It's a motor boat playground in the summer. We were battling wakes all day long.
The only relaxing moment was when we reached our destination and I took this photo just after sunset and swore off that lake for good.
My advice: Get lost on Lake Havasu in a kayak at night, drink whiskey and sing songs, wish on shooting stars, know how good you have it and then slip out undetected before morning comes and the boats gobble up the water like screaming monsters.