Vladimir Nabokov said life is 'A brief crack of light between two eternities of darkness'. I happen to belive this view which means I want to enjoy every last second I've been given.

There are few things that I get real pleasure from: Time with family and friends being the obvious examples, but for pure (and unrequieted) joy, time on a surf board is hard to beat.Unrequieted? Given the bruises and injuries, the ocean definitely doesn't love me back!

In terms of technical details this picture is a still captured from a GoPro Hero 3 camera in 1440p movie mode. It took some debating as to whether I should allow it into my portfolio given that it's not taken on a 'real' camera and it's not really a photograph.

However, I like the image and I could successfully argue that lots of photographic experience went into selecting and processing the shot, let alone picking and placing the camera in the first place. And anyway, who says it's not a real camera? After all, it makes a picture using a brief crack of light.

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