The only way to visit this place is to get a Navajo guide to accompany you. We opted for a "photography tour" which is a little more expensive but also a little longer than a regular tour. The guide helped us to get the classic shots (like this one) and then gave us some time to wander around hunting for details (this is where I would have enjoyed a couple more hours of complete freedom without time pressure).
Entering the canyon is a mystical experience that I can only compare to visiting a temple or a church. The curves sculpted by the water create amazing texture and shapes. It certainly is a paradise to those photographers who love to create abstract composition using textures and the geometries created by shadows and light.